Yarn Count Knowledge

Yarn count is the core indicator of yarn thickness, which directly determines the feel, appearance and function of fabrics, and is a key parameter for design, production and purchase in the textile industry. Its essence is to quantify the thickness by “yarn length per unit weight” or “yarn weight per unit length”, the core law is: under the same count system and raw materials, the higher the count, the finer the yarn; the lower the count, the coarser the yarn. For example, for the same cotton yarn, 20-count (20S) yarn is thicker than 40-count (40S) yarn, which produces thicker and more wear-resistant fabrics, while 40-count cotton yarn is more slender, which corresponds to lighter and softer fabrics.

In the textile industry, yarn count is mainly categorized into two systems: fixed-weight and fixed-length, which have significant differences in logic and application scenarios and should not be directly confused. Fixed weight system is “fixed weight than length”, that is, take a fixed weight of yarn, the longer the length of the higher the count, the common British system count (S) and metric system count (Nm). English count (S) is mostly used for cotton, linen and cotton blended yarns, such as cotton T-shirts, linen shirts commonly used 26S-40S labeling; metric count (Nm) is more prevalent in the wool spinning industry, such as wool sweaters, worsted jackets are mostly in Nm as a unit. Fixed length system is “fixed length than weight”, that is, take a fixed length of yarn, the lighter the weight of the higher the number of count, the representative indicators for Danier (D) and Tex (Tex), of which Danier (D) is commonly used in chemical fiber filament, such as silk stockings with 20D-200D to distinguish between thin and thick, Tex (Tex) is an international standard unit. It is mostly found in industrial yarns.

The “singles” and “strands” properties of yarns are also reflected in the count labeling, which in turn affects fabric properties. Single yarns, twisted from a single fiber bundle and labeled “XXS” (e.g. 40S), are characterized by lightness and breathability, but are less strong and prone to linting; strands, twisted from a combination of two or more single yarns and labeled “XXS / strand” (e.g. 40S/2), are stronger and more resistant to abrasion. ), which is stronger, more wear-resistant and less prone to deformation, and is suitable for jeans, shirt fabrics and other products that require durability. For example, the thickness of 40S/2 yarn is close to 20S single yarn, but the strength is much better than 20S single yarn, which can better cope with daily wear and tear.

In the actual purchase and application, you need to choose the count according to the scenario and needs, and avoid falling into the misunderstanding that “high count means high quality”. Low-count yarn (2S-16S) is suitable for making denim, canvas and other thick and wear-resistant fabrics; medium-count yarn (20S-40S) balances softness and durability, and is the mainstream choice for cotton T-shirts, regular shirts, and ordinary bedding; high-count yarn (50S and above) is used for high-grade shirts and home textiles due to its delicate softness. But the advantages of high-count yarns need to be built on the basis of high-quality raw materials (such as long-staple cotton, fine wool) and high weaving density, if the raw material is poor, low density, even if the labeling of the high-count, the fabric may also appear pilling, deformation and other issues. In addition, some merchants have false labeling of the number of cases, when buying can be initially judged by the feel -- high-count fabrics delicate and smooth, low-count fabrics rough and thick, when possible, you can check the product test report to confirm the number of counts and raw material information.